Mezynskyi National Park: The Pearl of the Chernihiv Region

Chernihivshchyna is the name of a modern region in northern Ukraine. The terrain here is unique, characterized by rolling hills and vast wetlands. Due to the challenging conditions for large-scale agriculture, much of the area has avoided significant human interference, remaining virtually unchanged for thousands of years. This preservation is why the unique Mezynskyi National Park is located here. It is more than just a protected area; it is a singular place on Earth where the floodplains of the Desna River meet high chalk mountains, and where archaeological discoveries reshape our understanding of the Paleolithic era.

Characteristics of the Natural Park

Established in 2006, Mezynskyi National Nature Park spans over 31,000 hectares. It is a unique ecosystem where the terrain was shaped over millennia and remains unchanged even today. The primary characteristics of this protected area include:

1. Landscape: The territory consists of chalk mountains, dense forests, pristine lakes, and the Desna River.
2. Fauna: The park serves as a critical migratory corridor for birds; consequently, the area is teeming with diverse bird species throughout the season.
3. Zoning: The park is divided into several functional zones, ranging from strictly protected areas (where any human interference is prohibited) to recreational zones featuring established ecological trails and designated resting areas.

Photo: NativePlanting, 4 July 2016, own work, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Largest Mammoth Site in Eastern Europe

The heart of the nature reserve is the village of Mezyn. In 1908, mammoth bone fragments were accidentally discovered here. While working on a construction project, a local resident unearthed massive bones and initially mistook them for the remains of a dragon. Subsequent detailed archaeological excavations revealed an ancient settlement of mammoth hunters at a depth of 5 meters. Archaeologists estimate the findings to be approximately 20,000 years old. The Mezyn settlement of the Late Paleolithic era is unique and stands out from others for several reasons:

1. Dwellings: Primitive humans used mammoth bones as structural elements for their homes. On average, it took 95 animal jaws to construct a single dwelling.
2. A Culture of Art: A standout feature of these excavations was the discovery of sophisticated artistry. Archaeologists found bones adorned with unique engravings. These early humans painted bones and crafted jewelry from them. Similar geometric patterns (meanders) were later famously used in ancient Greece.

The archaeological excavations eventually spanned the entire territory of the village. In honor of these extraordinary finds, a dedicated museum was established in Mezyn, where visitors today can view replicas of these archaeological treasures.

Ivan Mazepa and the Great Northern War

Mezynskyi National Nature Park is unique not only for its ancient Paleolithic settlements; it is also a site of great significance for the Ukrainian Cossacks. In the 18th century, the village of Dehtiarivka became a pivotal location during the conflict between the Tsardom of Russia and the Swedish Empire. Ivan Mazepa, then the Hetman of Left-Bank Ukraine, signed an alliance treaty with King Charles XII of Sweden. Under this agreement, Sweden committed to protecting Mazepa’s lands, while the Hetman pledged military assistance in the struggle against the Russian Empire. Ultimately, the war was lost, after which the Russian Tsar devastated Ukrainian lands, and Ivan Mazepa was branded a "traitor" a label that persisted until Ukraine gained its independence.

To commemorate the signing of this alliance, a historical plaque has been placed within the natural park near an oak tree that is over 500 years old. Experts from the Mezynskyi Park state that the documents were signed right beneath this ancient oak. The tree still stands on the park's grounds today, allowing visitors to physically touch a living piece of history.

The Enchanted Desna: A River Untouched by Human Hands

The Desna is the largest tributary of the Dnipro River, flowing through the entirety of the Chernihiv region. The famous Ukrainian writer and filmmaker Oleksandr Dovzhenko called the Desna "enchanted" in his works, celebrating its unique beauty and character. It remains one of the few rivers in Europe that has undergone virtually no human interference. Its current has remained unchanged for thousands of years, and there is not a single dam or levee along its entire course.

The traditions upheld by modern Ukrainians also remain unchanged. For instance, local residents continue to craft boats hollowed out from a single tree trunk and use them to navigate the Desna. Additionally, a traditional ferry remains in operation, actively used by locals throughout the season until the river freezes. Its unique feature is that it is operated manually by only three people using pure physical strength. No electric motors or internal combustion engines are used. Visitors can even experience this personally by transporting their own vehicle to the other side of the Desna.

Photo: SnizhokAM, 20 June 2021, own work, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Photo: “Мезинський_національний_природний_парк_5.jpg” - SnizhokAM, 20 June 2021, own work, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Impact of War on the National Park

The Mezynskyi National Nature Park, like all of Ukraine, has suffered significantly due to the Russian war against Ukraine. In 2022, the Chernihiv region was under occupation, and active hostilities took place throughout the area. The national park sustained damage through the destruction of information signage, landmining, and the movement of heavy military equipment across its territory.

As of 2026, while the territory is no longer under occupation, the threat of aerial attacks from drones and remote mining remains. These factors severely complicate the efforts of specialists dedicated to the protection and conservation of the natural park.

The Best Time to Visit

The most ideal time to visit Mezynskyi Park is in May. During late spring, a vast number of birds flock to the territory, and the flood season begins on the Desna River. The water levels rise rapidly, completely inundating the floodplains just as they have for thousands of years.

Mezynskyi Park is located approximately 280 km (174 miles) from Kyiv and 150 km (93 miles) from Chernihiv. You can reach the park via the following methods:

1. By Car: The best route is through Chernihiv, continuing toward Sosnytsia and Korop. Your final destination will be the village of Mezyn or Dehtiarivka. The drive is scenic, though some sections require careful attention to the road surface.
2. By Public Transportation: Take a bus from Chernihiv or Kyiv to the town of Korop. From there, you can take local transport or a taxi to the park’s villages (Mezyn, Rykhly, or Dehtiarivka).

Be sure to visit this national park and personally touch a piece of millennial history that remains unchanged to this day.